Trim Terminology.
Plain English.

A development or counter sample that has been formally signed off by the buyer as the production standard. Once approved, all bulk production must match it within agreed tolerances for width, colour (Delta E ≤ 1.5), and construction. The approved sample is retained by the manufacturer as a physical reference throughout the production run and used as the QC benchmark. Any deviation from the approved sample requires buyer notification before dispatch.

A narrow trim formed by interlacing three or more strands of yarn at an angle. Unlike woven trims (which have warp and weft), braided constructions are made entirely from interlocking diagonal yarns. Used in upholstery, uniforms, fashion edging, and cord trims. Common types include flat braid, round cord, soutache, gimp, and military braid.

A heavy, twisted metallic fringe style originally used in military and ecclesiastical decoration, now common in luxury home textiles and ethnic fashion. Bullion fringe is characterised by thick, tightly-twisted cords of metallic yarn hanging from a woven header. Heavier and more substantial than cut or looped fringe.

A fringe style where the hanging strands are formed from a continuous loop of yarn worked into a lightweight chain-like structure, rather than cut ends. Gives a fluid, airy drape. Often used in fashion, scarves, and home décor. Softer and more movement-oriented than bullion or cut fringe.

How resistant a dyed trim is to colour loss or transfer under specific conditions — washing, rubbing (crocking), light, perspiration, or chlorine. Rated 1–5, where 5 = excellent and 1 indicates severe bleeding or fading. Buyers for machine-washable or skin-contact garments should request colour fastness grades. Key test standards: ISO 105-C06 (washing), ISO 105-X12 (rubbing). Minimum acceptable for most fashion applications is Grade 3–4. Higher grades require more expensive dyestuffs or process controls.

A specific colour combination applied to an existing design or construction. One trim design can be produced in multiple colourways — for example, a Jacquard ribbon pattern may exist in a navy/gold colourway, a red/silver colourway, and a black/white colourway. When developers refer to “sampling two colourways,” they mean producing the same construction in two different colour combinations simultaneously.

The method by which a trim is made — how yarns are interlaced, looped, braided, or embroidered together. Construction defines the structure, density, behaviour under tension, and end-use suitability of a trim. Examples: Jacquard woven, machine crochet, flat braid, plain weave, twill weave. Two trims that look similar can behave very differently if their construction differs.

A trim construction where yarn is looped through itself with a hook (hand crochet) or replicated mechanically (machine crochet) to create an open, lace-like fabric. Hand crochet is slower and more irregular, valued for artisanal character. Machine crochet replicates the same loop structure at scale with consistent tension. Common materials: cotton, polyester, nylon, viscose. Used heavily in lingerie, ethnic fashion, and bridal trims.

A numerical measure of colour difference between two samples. A ΔE of 0 means identical colours; higher values indicate greater visible difference. In textile production, a ΔE of ≤ 1.5 is the industry standard for acceptable colour consistency between approved sample and bulk production. Values above 3.0 are generally visible to the naked eye and considered a colour failure. Used for dyed yarns, printed bases, and coloured metallic threads.

A physical sample produced from scratch based on a buyer’s brief, reference, or specification — as distinct from a catalogue sample (an existing stocked design). Development samples require pattern setup, yarn sourcing, and machine programming before production begins, typically taking 10–15 working days. Once approved, the development sample becomes the approved reference that all subsequent bulk production is matched against.

The way a trim hangs or falls under its own weight. A trim with good drape flows fluidly when attached to fabric; a trim with poor drape stands away from the surface or bunches. Drape is influenced by yarn type, construction density, and width. Buyers assessing samples are often checking whether the trim will drape correctly on a garment rather than just whether it looks right flat on a desk.

A batch of yarn or fabric dyed together in a single dyeing run. Yarn from the same dye lot is colour-consistent; yarn from different lots can show a visible shade shift even nominally the same colour, because each dyeing run has slight variation. For trim orders spanning multiple production runs, buyers should request that sufficient yarn from a single dye lot is reserved for the full order. Critical for large or long-running programmes where colour consistency across deliveries matters.

Applying colour to yarn or finished fabric using chemical dye. The dye class depends on fibre type: disperse dye for polyester, reactive dye for cotton, acid dye for nylon and silk. Yarn-dyed trims (dyed before weaving) — including most Jacquard ribbons — have better colour penetration and fastness than piece-dyed alternatives. Metallic yarns (Zari, Lurex) are manufactured in colour and are not dyed. Dyeing adds lead time; specifying an existing yarn colour avoids a dye run entirely.

A lace trim with one straight edge (for attaching to fabric) and one decorative scalloped or patterned edge (which hangs free). Primarily used to finish hems, necklines, cuffs, and lingerie edges. Distinct from insertion lace (two straight edges, sewn into fabric) and galloon lace (two decorative edges).

A woven or non-woven base fabric with embroidery applied by multi-head machine. The base (satin, organza, cotton, velvet, grosgrain) provides structure while the embroidery adds pattern, texture, and dimension in thread, metallic thread, sequin, or bead. Used extensively in bridal, ethnic fashion, and decorative home textiles. Width typically ranges from 1cm to 15cm.

A lace or embroidered fabric characterised by small, regularly-spaced holes (eyelets) punched or stitched into the base. The holes are surrounded by embroidered stitching that prevents fraying. Common in cotton and broderie anglaise styles. Used in summer apparel, children’s clothing, and home textiles. Distinct from standard crochet lace in that it starts with a woven base rather than building structure from yarn alone.

A braid with a ribbon-like flat profile, as opposed to a round cord. Made by interlacing strands on a flat braiding machine. Used for military uniform trim, belt loop edging, hat trim, and fashion borders. Flat braids have two clean edges and a consistent width, making them easy to sew flat onto fabric. Width typically ranges from 3mm to 50mm.

In woven trims, a float is a yarn that passes over multiple warp or weft threads without interlacing, creating a raised or elongated strand on the fabric surface or reverse. Jacquard patterns use floats to create pattern depth and sheen on the face. On the reverse side of a Jacquard ribbon, long floats are normal and unavoidable — buyers specifying an exposed reverse (e.g. a hem-stitched application) should flag this early in development.

A decorative trim consisting of hanging strands attached to a woven header. The strands may be cut yarn ends, loops, bullion twists, or chainette links. Fringe is specified by fringe drop (hanging length), header width (the woven attachment band), and yarn type. Common types: cut fringe, looped fringe, bullion fringe, beaded fringe, Gota fringe, chainette fringe. Used in home textiles, fashion, ethnic wear, and furnishing.

The length of the hanging strands below the header of a fringe trim, measured from the bottom of the header to the tip of the strand. A key specification when ordering fringe — a 2-inch drop reads very differently at scale than a 6-inch drop. Typically measured in inches or centimetres. At Lami, fringe drop ranges from 1 inch to 6 inches across our standard range.

A lace trim with two decorative edges, as opposed to edging lace (one straight edge) or insertion lace (two straight edges). Because both edges are finished, galloon lace can be applied as a standalone strip or sewn flat across fabric as an overlay. Commonly used in lingerie, bridal corsets, and visible seam work where both edges will be seen.

A braid made from a core yarn wrapped or looped with an outer yarn, giving a textured, slightly ridged surface. The outer wrap creates a loop pattern that distinguishes gimp from plain flat braid. Used in furnishing trims, drapery, upholstery, and decorative costume work. Typically narrower than standard military braid, with a distinctive bumpy or looped visual texture.

A traditional Indian metallic trim woven from fine Zari (gold or silver metallic yarn) into a narrow, stiff ribbon with a distinctive sheen. Originating in Rajasthan, Gota is used extensively in ethnic fashion — lehengas, sarees, dupattas, and bridal wear — as an appliqued or edge-stitched embellishment. Gota has a characteristic crisp hand and a light-reflective quality distinct from softer lurex-based metallics.

Weight of a fabric or trim expressed as grams per square metre. Higher GSM = denser, heavier, more substantial. Lower GSM = lightweight, drapey. Relevant when specifying trim weight in a tech pack, or when substituting one construction for another without changing the visual weight on a garment. For conversion: 1 oz/yd² ≈ 33.9 GSM. Jacquard ribbons typically range from 80–250 GSM depending on width and construction density.

The tactile quality of a trim as experienced when handled — softness, stiffness, smoothness, weight, and texture. Hand-feel is subjective but critical: a trim might look correct on screen but feel wrong when sewn onto a garment. During development, buyers often specify hand-feel using physical references (“soft like viscose,” “stiff enough to hold an edge”) rather than numbers. Lami’s development team matches hand-feel from physical reference samples.

The width of the woven attachment band at the top of a fringe trim, through which the fringe strands are anchored. The header is the part that gets sewn to the fabric. A wider header provides more area for sewing and greater stability; a narrow header gives a more minimal, visible-only attachment. Typically ranges from ¼ inch to 2 inches. Specified separately from fringe drop.

A lace trim with two straight edges, designed to be sewn directly into fabric seams or sandwiched between two panels of material. Unlike edging lace (which finishes an edge) insertion lace is inserted into the fabric itself, with stitched seams along both edges. Common in blouses, sleeves, and heritage lingerie construction. The straight edges are essential for a clean insertion seam.

A woven ribbon produced on a Jacquard loom — a machine that controls individual warp yarns independently to create complex, multi-colour patterns. Named after Joseph Marie Jacquard (1801). Jacquard ribbons can reproduce fine details, gradients, and pictorial motifs that plain weave looms cannot. The pattern is woven into the structure itself, not printed on top, making it colourfast and durable. Common constructions: shuttleless, rapier, or needle loom Jacquard.

An openwork fabric made by looping, twisting, or knitting thread to create a decorative pattern with deliberate holes. As a trim, lace is sold in narrow widths (typically ½ inch to 12 inches). Major lace types include crochet lace, Raschel lace (machine-knitted), Valenciennes, and Schiffli embroidery lace. Classified further by edge profile: edging, insertion, or galloon.

Total time from order placement to goods in hand at the buyer’s location. Lead time = production time (TAT) + transit time. For a European buyer ordering Lami bulk: 30-day production + 20-day sea freight = ~50-day lead time. Buyers building collection production schedules work backwards from their garment production start date to find their trim order deadline. Always confirm whether a supplier’s quoted lead time means time to dispatch or time to arrival — the difference can be 2–4 weeks.

A brand name that has become the generic term for a type of metallic yarn made from a plastic film (usually polyester) coated with a metallic layer and wrapped around a core yarn. Lurex gives a soft, flexible metallic sheen and is considerably more pliable than Zari. It drapes well and is comfortable next to skin, making it suitable for fashion applications where hard Zari would be impractical. A viscose-lurex blend is common in fashion Jacquard where both sheen and softness are required.

A broad category of yarns that produce a metallic appearance. Includes Zari (genuine metal thread, traditional Indian), Lurex (plastic film wrapped on core yarn), and metallic foil yarn (flat strip). Each has a different hand-feel, drape, cost, and durability. Zari is stiffer and more traditional; Lurex is softer and more fashion-oriented. Both can be gold, silver, or coloured.

Minimum Order Quantity. The smallest quantity a manufacturer will produce or sell in a single order. In trim manufacturing, MOQ is set by the economics of machine setup, yarn purchase minimums, and dyeing lot sizes. MOQs vary significantly between catalogue designs (where setup has already been done and trial quantities are often available) and custom developments (where new setup costs must be amortised over the order). Always confirm MOQ per item, not as a blanket figure.

A visual reference collection — photographs, fabric swatches, colour chips, runway images, or lifestyle imagery — assembled to communicate the aesthetic direction of a design brief. Mood boards convey intent rather than specification: colour feel, texture direction, weight impression, and market positioning. A skilled development team extracts construction and material hypotheses from a mood board without requiring the buyer to translate aesthetics into technical language.

A synthetic polyamide fibre. In trim applications, nylon is valued for its strength, abrasion resistance, and elasticity. Nylon lace and crochet trims hold their shape better than cotton under repeated washing. It has a slightly higher sheen than polyester and a softer hand. Common in lingerie lace, swimwear trims, and performance apparel edging. More expensive than polyester but more durable.

A thin, plain-weave sheer fabric with a crisp hand, typically made from silk, polyester, or nylon. Used as the base fabric for embroidered ribbons and Jacquard ribbons where transparency and lightness are desired. Organza-base embroidery gives the appearance of floating embroidery when applied to garments. It takes dye well and retains shape without stiffener. A common choice for bridal and evening wear trims.

A standardised colour matching system used across industries to communicate colour precisely. A Pantone reference (e.g. PMS 286 C) identifies a specific colour unambiguously, independent of monitor calibration or printing conditions. In trim development, providing a Pantone number is the most accurate way to specify colour for dyeing. In the absence of a Pantone, HEX codes and physical swatches are used, with Delta E tolerance applied to measure acceptable match.

The length along a ribbon or trim at which the design motif returns to its starting point. A Jacquard ribbon with a 12cm repeat will show the same complete motif every 12cm. Important for buyers who need to match patterns at seams or around garment panels — a shorter repeat makes matching easier; a longer repeat gives a grander look but wastes more material in cut-and-match applications. Stated in centimetres or inches.

A synthetic polymer fibre, the most widely used material in trim manufacturing. Polyester is valued for its colorfastness, low cost, wash durability, and availability in virtually any colour. It accepts disperse dye well and holds colour better than natural fibres under UV and washing. Available in many yarn weights and finishes — matte, semi-gloss, satin — making it versatile across product types. Most Lami Jacquard, crochet, and woven tape products are available in polyester.

Number of weft yarn insertions per inch of ribbon length. Higher PPI = denser, firmer, heavier ribbon. Lower PPI = more open, flexible, lighter. PPI is part of the construction specification and affects weight, stiffness, pattern clarity, and cost. Metric equivalent: picks per centimetre (PPC). A change in PPI without changing the pattern file will alter the visual proportions of the pattern repeat — important to flag if matching an existing reference.

Production of a trim or product under the buyer’s own brand identity rather than the manufacturer’s. In trim terms, this typically means a ribbon or trim produced with the buyer’s logo woven or printed into the design, or packaged and labelled as the buyer’s own product. Private label production requires a custom development, usually with higher MOQs than catalogue orders, but gives brands full ownership of the design.

The process of checking finished production against agreed specifications before dispatch. For trim manufacturing, QC typically covers: width tolerance (e.g. ±0.5mm), colour consistency (Delta E ≤ 1.5 vs approved sample), pattern repeat accuracy, surface defects (missed threads, loose ends, broken pattern), and roll length. In-house QC means the manufacturer checks their own production; third-party QC involves an independent inspector. Lami performs full in-house QC before all dispatch.

A narrow woven strip of fabric with two clean, finished edges (selvedges), produced on a ribbon or needle loom. Distinguished from tape (which can have raw or cut edges) and lace (which has an open structure). Ribbons range from plain satin and grosgrain to complex Jacquard-woven designs. Width typically ranges from ⅛ inch (3mm) to 4 inches (100mm). Finished edges are a defining characteristic — ribbon should not fray when cut to length.

A weave structure (not a fibre) characterised by long warp floats on the surface that create a smooth, glossy face and a duller back. In ribbon and trim, “satin” usually refers to a polyester or silk fabric with this weave structure used as a base for embroidery, printing, or as a finished ribbon in its own right. Single-faced satin has gloss on one side only; double-faced satin has gloss on both sides.

The finished, self-bound edge of a woven ribbon or fabric that prevents fraying. In ribbon weaving, the selvedge is formed during weaving when the weft yarn turns back at the edge — no cut or hemming required. A clean selvedge is a mark of quality in ribbon production; a ribbon with a messy or looping selvedge indicates loom tension or yarn issues. Both edges of a ribbon should have even, consistent selvedges.

Small flat or cup-shaped discs of shiny material (usually plastic or metal) attached to fabric or base ribbon by machine embroidery. Sequins catch and reflect light, creating sparkle. In trim manufacturing, sequins are applied by multi-head embroidery machines, either as a sole embellishment or combined with thread and bead work. Cup-shaped sequins catch more light than flat sequins. Available in a vast range of colours, sizes, and finishes (holographic, matte, AB/iridescent).

The acceptable range of colour variation between production batches, defined relative to the approved standard. Expressed as a Delta E tolerance (e.g. “within ΔE 1.5 of standard”). A shade band enables in-house QC to pass or reject each production lot without buyer involvement on every batch. Buyers specifying trim across multiple garment components that must match each other (e.g. ribbon and lace in the same colourway) should confirm all components are checked against the same reference standard.

A very narrow, flat braid (typically 2–5mm wide) with a central groove running along its length. The groove allows soutache to be sewn in curves and swirls without buckling, making it ideal for decorative scrollwork, jewellery making, and ornamental garment embellishment. Widely used in couture, military dress uniform, and ethnic fashion. Available in metallic, viscose, polyester, and silk finishes.

A trim pattern already set up on the manufacturer’s loom or machine and available in standard colourways — as distinct from a custom development. Stock designs can be sampled and produced faster because no new pattern setup is required, and MOQ is typically lower. Buyers can order a stock design in its existing colourways, or request a new colourway development using the same design structure. The latter adds development time but avoids full setup cost compared to a completely new pattern.

A decorative ornament consisting of a bundle of loose threads or cords gathered and knotted at one end (the cap) with the other ends hanging freely. Tassels are sold individually or as a continuous trim (tassel chain). Cap options include metal, wooden, or thread-wrapped. Used in home textiles (cushion corners, curtain ties), jewellery, ethnic fashion, and gift packaging. Size is described by overall length and cap type.

Turnaround Time. The number of working days from order confirmation to dispatch of goods. For catalogue samples at Lami, TAT is approximately 7 working days. For development samples, TAT is 10–15 working days depending on complexity. For bulk production, TAT is agreed per order based on quantity and current production schedule. TAT begins from order confirmation and payment of any required advance, not from the date of enquiry.

A technical specification document prepared by a buyer that details every measurable attribute of a trim: construction type, width, material, colour (Pantone or HEX), pattern dimensions, weight, tolerance ranges, labelling requirements, and packaging spec. A complete tech pack allows a manufacturer to produce without back-and-forth clarification. Not all buyers have tech packs — references, mood boards, and verbal briefs are equally valid starting points at Lami, with the tech pack built up during the development process.

A semi-synthetic fibre made from regenerated cellulose (wood pulp). Viscose (also called rayon) has a silk-like drape and sheen with a soft hand-feel that synthetic fibres like polyester do not replicate. It is moisture-absorbent and dyes to vivid colours. In trim applications, viscose is used in Jacquard ribbons and braids where a high-lustre, fabric-like finish is required. A viscose-lurex blend combines the drape of viscose with metallic sheen.

The set of yarns that run lengthwise on a loom, held under tension during weaving. Warp yarns are fixed in position; the weft is interlaced through them. In ribbon weaving, warp density (ends per centimetre) affects the firmness and density of the finished ribbon. In Jacquard weaving, the pattern is created by controlling which warp yarns are raised or lowered at each weft insertion. Warp yarns tend to be stronger and smoother than weft yarns in the same fabric.

The yarn that is interlaced horizontally through the warp during weaving, running across the width of the ribbon. Each weft insertion creates one row of the weave. Weft yarn choice affects colour on the face of the ribbon, handle, and the behaviour of floats on the reverse. In a viscose weft with metallic border construction, the main body of the ribbon is viscose weft while a separate metallic yarn is carried along the edges.

The measurement of a trim from edge to edge, perpendicular to its length. Measured in millimetres, centimetres, or inches. Width is the first specification buyers typically confirm. Lami’s product range spans ⅛ inch to 10 inches (3mm to 254mm). Width tolerance in bulk production is ±0.5mm from the approved sample. Custom widths are available on development orders.

Traditional Indian metallic thread made from fine metal wire (gold or silver) drawn around a silk or cotton core. Zari is the defining material of Indian ethnic textile traditions — used in Banarasi sarees, Kanjivaram silk, lehenga borders, and embroidered bridal trims. It has a crisp, stiff hand and brilliant metallic sheen distinct from the softer flexibility of Lurex. Available in real Zari (genuine metal) and imitation Zari (metallic-coated synthetic). Surat is one of India’s major Zari weaving centres.